What is better than a crochet stocking free pattern? It’s a pattern that gives you options. Whether you’re looking for a standard size stocking or a smaller one, this is a one pattern with instructions to make two sizes.
I’ve included detailed instructions that will be suitable to newer and experienced crocheters alike. Give your Holidays decoration a touch of elegance with this modern crochet stockings.
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Table of Contents
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Crochet Stocking Free Pattern Materials
Here is a list of very basic supplies and tools to crochet these stockings:
- Worsted weight yarn (#4) – see “about the yarn” section for details
- 5.50 mm hook (US I) for larger stocking
- 5.00 mm hook (US H) for smaller stocking
- Stitch marker
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle
How to Prevent Crochet Stockings from Stretching?
Crochet is stretchy by nature and, even if you use tight stitches, it probably won’t hold up 100% well. But there are a few solutions to prevent them from stretching.
Here is what you can do:
- Use 100% cotton yarn, or any other yarn with little to no stretch in it.
- Use a smaller hook, so the stiches will be as tight as possible.
- Add a flannel fabric liner (if you’re comfortable with sewing).
- Hang them when they are empty but keep them under the tree when they are full.
Crochet stockings are amazing for decoration and will be great for Santa’s goodies as well. Whatever you’re making this crochet stocking free pattern for, I hope you find this information helpful.
While you’re scrolling through this crochet stocking free pattern, you may also like to check these latest patterns and tutorials out:
Are you looking for more crochet Christmas decoration patterns? Check out this list of 18 beautiful crochet Christmas garlands.
Best Yarn for these Christmas Stockings
Any worsted weight (#4) or bulky (#5) will work great for this crochet stocking free pattern. If you want your stockings to be filled with Santa’s goodies, make sure you pick yarn with little to no stretching.
The yarn used in the pictured samples:
- Worsted Weight (#4) double strand for the large stocking – I used Re-Up by Lion Brand, which is a 70% Recycled Cotton and 30% Recycled Polyester yarn. In colors Rosewater (C1), Silver Lining (C1), and Full Moon (C2).
- Worsted Weight (#4) single strand for the small stocking – I Love This Yarn by Hobby Lobby – 100 % Acrylic. In colors Cream (C2) and Light Taupe (C1)
Amount of Yarn You’ll Need
- Larger stocking (worsted weight double strand): 13.73 oz (389 g), or 640 yds (586 m) each stocking.
- C1: 10.16 oz (289 g) or 473 yds (433 m)
- C2: 3.57 oz (102 g) or 167 yds (153 m)
- Smaller stocking (worsted weight single strand): 4.24 oz (120 g), or 216 yds (198 m) each stocking.
- C1: 1.58 oz (45 g) or 81 yds (74 m)
- C2: 2.66 oz (76 g) or 135 yds (123 m)
Skills and Stitch Instructions
The skills you will need for this crochet stocking free pattern are not complicated and are probably doable by an advanced beginner. You will need to know how to do simple color change, basic hand sewing, and fasten off.
As for stiches, we are using chains, the magic circle (mc), single crochet (sc), double crochet (dc), and front post single crochet (fpsc). Additionally, you will need to know how to sc increase (inc), single crochet two together (sc2tog), and slip stich (sl st).
Special Stitches
The stitch used in main body of this crochet stocking free pattern is called “seed stitch”. It’s an easy two round repeat pattern that’s an alternation of double crochet and single crochet stitches.
Here are the instructions for the seed stitch on the round:
- ch 2, (dc, sc) around, sl st to first dc st to join.
- ch 1, (sc, dc) around, sl st to first sc st to join.
- Repeat 1 and 2 as needed.
How to Change Yarn Colors
This crochet stocking free pattern will have such a nice checkerboard texture if you use two colors of yarn in the arch and ankle sections.
Here are a couple recommendations for colorwork:
- Method #1: Cut the current yarn when it’s time to change. Then, attach the new yarn to start the new round.
- Method #2: Drop the current yarn at the back of the work and pick the new one in the first stitch to start the new round. The finish at the back won’t look as clean, but you won’t have to deal with all the ends to weave-in afterwards.
Remember, changing colors in crochet comes with having to deal with more ends to weave in if you cut the yarn. But it can always be rewarding and help you to achieve unique looks and textures for your projects.
More Seasonal Free Patterns
- Crochet Christmas Garland Pattern
- Crochet Pumkin Pattern
- Spooky Halloween Patterns
- Amigurumi 3D Heart Pattern
- Crochet Easter Basket Pattern
- Crochet Marshmellow Peep Bunny
- Easter Egg Crochet Pattern
Crochet Stocking Free Pattern
These Christmas stockings will be easy to crochet if you’re comfortable with some basic stiches and techniques. As well as with reading crochet patterns.
Please ensure before you start you go through all the notes and instructions. And if you’re wondering about sizing, I made 3 samples for this pattern with worsted weight yarn (#4), so you could have options.
But for the largest stocking I used a double strand, which will be about the equivalent to bulky (#5) yarn. Please make sure to check the “gauge” section to find out what to expect.
Size Information
- Larger – with worsted weight (#4) double strand yarn or bulky (#5) yarn: 17” (43 cm) tall x 7.5” (19 cm) wide.
- Smaller – with worsted weight (#4) yarn single strand: 15” (38 cm) tall x 6.5” (16.5 cm) wide.
Instructions and Design Information
- This crochet stocking free pattern was written in US crochet terminology.
- Level of difficulty: Intermediate
- The stocking is crocheted from the bottom (toe) up to the cuff.
- We are using single crochet stitches for the toe, heel, and cuff. And seed stitch for the main body, which is a combination of single crochet and double crochet stitches.
- The toe section is crocheted in continuous rounds, meaning you’re not join the rounds with a slip stitch.
More instructions will be added in each step for better understanding.
Pattern Abbreviations
- C1: Color 1 (used for the arch and ankle sections)
- C2: Color 2 (used for toe, heel, and cuff)
- ch (s): chain (s)
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- fpsc: front post single crochet
- inc: two single crochet sts in next st
- mc: magic circle
- rem: remain / remaining
- sc2tog: single crochet two together
- sl st: slip stitch
- st: stitch
- yo: yarn over
- [ ]: stitch count in a round
- ( ): indicates certain instructions will be worked multiple times
A Note on Gauge
Meeting gauge won’t be crucial unless you want your stockings to have the same size as the ones pictured in this pattern. But how do you find out gauge?
Crochet 6 rounds of the initial circle (toe) and measure it to make sure you will get the right size. Then, change your hook size if needed.
Here is the approximate gauge size you should get:
- For the large stocking: worsted Weight (#4) double strand yarn or bulky (#5) yarn, with a 5.5 mm (US I) hook = 4 ¼ in (10.8 cm) in diameter.
- For the small stocking: worsted Weight (#4) single strand yarn, with a 5.00 mm (US H) hook = 3.5” in (8.9 cm) in diameter.
To measure the diameter of your swatch, place the rule/measuring tape in the center, across the circle.
Crochet Stocking Free Pattern step by step
This first section of the pattern is crocheted in continuous rounds, meaning you won’t join with a sl st at the end of the round.
Use a stitch marker to mark the first or last st in each round, so you keep track of your st and round count. Alternatively, instead of the mc, you can ch 2 and crochet rnd 1 in 2nd ch from hook.
Total Time: 4 hours
-
Toe (use C2)
Rnd1: sc 7 in a mc
Rnd2: (inc) 7 times [14]
Rnd3: (inc, sc in next st) 7 times [21]
Rnd4: (inc, sc in next 2 sts) 7 times [28]
Rnd5: (inc, sc in next 3 sts) 7 times [35]
Rnd6: (inc, sc in next 4 sts) 7 times [42]
Rnd7: sc around [42]
Cut the yarn. FO. Attach yarn C1 to any stitch in round 7. -
Arch / Foot
(use C1 – or both yarn colors if you’re doing colorwork)
Instructions:
· Ch 2 and ch 1 won’t count as a st here and in the following rounds.
· If you’re doing color change, switch between C1 and C2 in every round of the Arch and Ankle sections (see color change instructions above).
· We are starting this section with a round of sc sts for a cleaner color transition.
Rnd8: sc around, sl st to first dc st to join. [42]
Rnd9: ch 2, (dc, sc) around, sl st to first dc st to join. [42]
Rnd10: ch 1, (sc, dc) around, sl st to first sc st to join. [42]
Rnd11-19: repeat rounds 9 and 10.
Tip: The dc st in the seed st tends to want to hide on the wrong side, so you may need to poke those sts to the right side with your fingers as you go. That way, you will have that nice texture pushed to the right side of your crochet stocking free pattern.
Drop C1, do not cut it (unless you’re doing colorwork). But place a stitch marker to lock the last loop so it won’t unravel. You will continue with C1 after crocheting the heel of your crochet stocking free pattern. -
Heel Flap (C2)
Instructions:
· The heel section in this crochet stocking free pattern will have its own row count.
· To make the heel, we need to create a “cup” and there are multiple ways to do that. But for this pattern, we are using the “back-and-forth row increase and decrease” method to form the flap.
· Then, we’ll fold it in half and sew on the sides. I’m adding lots of step-by-step pictures that I hope will be helpful to illustrate it.
Start by attaching the yarn (C2) to the first stitch in round 19 of the crochet stocking free pattern. Leave a long tail (about 15” / 38 cm) for sewing later.Row1: sc in 1st st and in next 20 sts, ch 1, turn. [21]
Row2: sc2tog, sc across until you have 2 sts rem, sc2tog, ch 1, turn. [19]
Row3-8: repeat row 2, you must have 7 sts across in row 8.
Next, you’re going to increase to create the 2nd half of the flap in the crochet stocking free pattern.
Row9: inc, sc across until you have 1 st rem, inc, ch 1, turn. [9]
Row10-15: repeat row 9, when you are done with row 15 you must have 21 sts across.
FO. Cut the yarn leaving a 15” (38 cm) tail for sewing. -
Seam the sides of the heel flap
Instructions:
· Fold the flap in half, so the seam will be in the inside of the crochet stocking free pattern.
· Thread the tapestry needle with the yarn tail and whip stitch to sew the two folded sides of the flap (one at a time).
· I recommend doing two rows of whip stitches to make sure the seam holds up well. FO. Cut the yarn. Turn the right side out.
Now, you will go back to where you dropped C1 to crochet the ankle section. You will start the round normally, but the first half of round 20 will be done in sc only, into the 21 sts of row 15 of the sewn heel flap. Then, you will continue the 2nd half of round 20 with the seed stitch. -
Ankle (round 20)
In this step of the crochet stocking free pattern you’ll start the ankle.
(use C1 – or both yarn colors if you’re doing colorwork)Rnd20: sc in next 20 sts, in last row of the heel flap.
{Now, there is a little trick you can do here with the next st to avoid skipping the side stitches that separate the arch/foot section and the heel, which would leave a gap in your crochet stocking free pattern.
Here is how you will do it (I’ll break it in bullet points to make it as clear as possible):· Insert the hook into the 21st st in row 15 of the flap, yo, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook),
· insert the hook into the side of the 21st st of row1 of the heel, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook),
· insert the hook into next st of the arch/foot section where that 21st st of row1 of the heel was made, yo, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yo, pull through all 4 to complete the 21st sc st}.Next, continue to the 21 sts rem in round 19 of the arch section to finish round 20.
Finish rnd20: (dc, sc) across the next 21 sts (repeat the steps above with the last dc st if needed to avoid another gap at the end of round 20), sl st to first sc st to join. [42]
-
Finish the Ankle
Rnd21: ch 2, (dc, sc) around, sl st to first sc st to join [42]
Rnd22: ch 1, (sc, dc) around, sl st to first dc st to join [42]
Rnd23-44: repeat rounds 21 and 22.
FO. Cut the yarn (C1). Switch to C2, which is the color you’re using for the cuff (attach yarn to first st in round 44).
Rnd45: sc around, sl st to first sc st to join [42]Do not cut the yarn, continue to the cuff with C2.
-
Cuff (C2)
See video tutorial below. For this crochet stocking free pattern cuff we are using the fpsc technique in back-and-forth rows.
Instructions:
· The cuff section will have its own row count. Turning ch 1 doesn’t count as a st.
· Fpsc sts are easier to crochet when you keep your tension loose. So, use a larger hook if you tend to crochet tight.
· Make sure when you turn, you do it in the same direction every time at the end of every row, that way you will have a clean finishing for the cuff.
Ch 9 (or more chs if you want the cuff wider)
Row1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 6 chs, insert hook in next ch, yo, pull up a loop (two loops on hook), do not complete the sc st yet, insert the hook in same st where you started the cuff chs in the edge of the ankle, yo, pull through two loops to complete the sc st, sl st in next sc st in the edge of the ankle, turn. [8]
Row2: fpsc in next 7 sc sts, sc in last st, ch 1, turn. [8]
Row3: fpsc in next 7 sc sts, insert the hook in last sc st, yo, pull up a loop (two loops on hook), do not complete the sc st yet, insert the hook in next sc st in the edge of the ankle, yo, pull through two loops on hook to complete the sc st, sl st in next sc st in the edge of the ankle, turn. [8]
Repeat Row2-3 across. You will know you reached the last row for the cuff when you don’t have any st rem to sl st in the edge of the ankle. FO. Cute the yarn. Leave a tail about 15” (38 cm) long for sewing.
You will have 42 total rows for the cuff.
-
Sew the ends of the cuff to join
Thread a tapestry needle with the leftover tail and follow these steps:
· Insert the needle in first st in last row of the cuff.
· Then, insert needle under the top two loops of the corresponding sc stitch in last row, one stitch at a time.
· Do it back-and-forth, until don’t have any stitches rem.FO. Cut the yarn. Weave in all ends. Fold the cuff to the outside.
-
Hanging String (C1)
The materials you can use for the hanging loop in this crochet stocking free pattern are: ribbon, burlap string, and yarn. But if you prefer to crochet the loop, here is a way to do it:
· Leave a long tail (about 8” / 20 cm). Ch 21 (separate from the stocking).
· Sc in back bump of 2nd ch from hook, sc in back bump of next 19 chs.
· Cut the yarn, leaving another long tail, the same size as the initial one, pull it through the last two loops on hook to secure it.
· Make a loop with your work and use the two long tails to securely attach it to 16th stitch in round 45 of the ankle, from the inside. FO. Cut the yarn. Weave in the ends.
Estimated Cost: 30.00 USD
Supply:
- Medium weight (#4) yarn
Tools:
- 5.50 mm hook (US I) for larger stocking, or
- 5.00 mm hook (US H) for smaller stocking
Materials: Scissors Stitch Marker Tapestry Needle
Here is a video tutorial on how to crochet the cuff:
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Conclusion
I hope you enjoed this crochet stocking free pattern and that it will be part of your next Christmas home decorations. Would you rather make it later? Add it to your Pinterest Boards here.
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